First up – Shwen Shwen in Sevenoaks, Kent, a West African restaurant run by self-taught chef Maria Bradford. CNT writes that Bradford’s aim with her new joint was to ‘give Sierra Leonean and Afro-fusion cooking the stage it deserves, carrying rich culinary legacies on unexpected, but always rewarding, paths’. Standout plates include smoky mackerel with plantain purée, griddled spatchcock poussin with palm butter sauce and charred octopus with Kankankan spice.